Review QSP Jumping Jack

  

-  the result of a successful collaboration

The modern grandfather knife, or something like that, is what I called this knife when it was presented here on the blog the other day. I'm, of course, referring to this slip joint from the now very established brand QSP.

The model has been named Jumping Jack, and here I intend to give a description of it so you can decide whether it is something for you or not.

QSP Jumping Jack

Jumping Jack is a lot of things at the same time, and you have to start by deciding whether you like slip joints or not, as the knife lacks a lock in the true sense. In addition, it is a so-called "modern traditional" which means that it is not exactly the same as, say, an old Case from the fifties. The appearance is certainly found here, but the materials and manufacturing technology are modern. Specifically, this means that the construction is screwed instead of riveted, as an example.

If some of you think you recognise the design language from elsewhere, I can attest that you are right. This is a collaboration between QSP and Spencer Marquardt, who is usually involved with Finch Knives.

Jumping Jack, a really nice slip joint

Short version: QSP Jumping Jack, a "modern traditional" and an essence of what such a knife can be. The design language is classic, but the performance is modern

Blade

The blade shape is a bit special. A combination of older times and Finch Knives, because the blade is wider towards the front than towards the base. Otherwise, this is a hybrid but where everything breathes a classic Spey blade. Something that was traditionally used to castrate animals. Hence, the steep tip, you simply don't want to poke holes in the wrong place. But the history is older, and the blade shape is good for precise cuts, and therefore it was also used in fly fishing contexts. Hence the name, it is named after the river Spey in Scotland.

Jumping Jack has a 70mm long Spey blade made of 14C28N

So far, it's classic, but some details are more modern. It's about things like the finish, a nice shiny satin, but mainly about the material. Here, stainless steel is used in the form of Sandvik 14C28N. A Swedish steel that was developed together with Kershaw Knives to be a better version of 12C28N.

As a steel, it is very all-round and one of my favourites when it comes to so-called mid-range steels. It has balanced properties and can handle most things. However, it is not extreme, so it does not hold its sharpness as well as a "super steel". It is also not as shock-resistant as the best in its class. But none of those properties is necessary in a small pocket knife. So here it is, an excellent choice.

The total length of the blade is 70 mm, and the thickness is 3 mm. The height of the blade varies between 19 mm and 16 mm.

The blade is, as it should be, completely flat-ground. It starts with a stock thickness of three millimetres that tapers down to a thickness of 0.4-0.5 mm behind the edge. The greater thickness is measured towards the tip.

The marking is discreet, and the Finch logo is found on the back of the blade

Speaking of tips, this one is unusually strong. Partly because the blade is very tall precisely in front, over the "hump". It is also first here that the blade starts to taper. This means that the tip works great for many small tasks, including puncturing thinner plastic and tape, etc.

But then this was a slip joint, so you shouldn't do stupid things like try to stab the blade into something; the risk of hurting yourself is then considerable. If you use the tip with a little discernment, it works great, though. Maybe it is a little too wide for my taste, as I like them to, among other things, pick metal chips out of fingers and hands. Yes, that is a common task for my pocket knives; I am a knife thrower after all. 

The blade, however, is otherwise extremely practical. That is the advantage of old blade types; they are tried and tested. This blade does not seem to have much of a curve, but the one that is there allows you to perform draw cuts against cutting boards, for example.

The straight edge works great for cutting anything that fits. By that I mean that it is a fairly small knife. The total edge length is around 63 mm. But if you stick to that, most things will be cut effectively. Especially since the knife is unusually sturdy for a slip joint.

Handle

Jumping Jack has a classically designed handle. Without a doubt, a nod to older times. It has a small "waist" at the front, which then widens to become a little rounder at the back. A curvy thing this. Incidentally, this also applies to the slightly arched sides.

The sides are both glued and screwed in place with two small T6. The frame and bolsters themselves are held in place by the adjustable pivot screw and a screw in the rear bolster. The size of the pivot screw is a notch up with a T8a. The fact that it is adjustable is significant for a modern traditional. An older knife would, of course, have been riveted. 

The handle is curvy with a steel bolster, frame and back spring

The material of the sides in this case is black and white resin plastic. Stylish but perhaps not the most exclusive. At the same time, it feels like a flirtation with the Cellidor plastic of the fifties. But if you want more exclusive sides, Jumping Jack is available in wood, blued bone and not least abalone. You know that green pearlescent material that comes from a special species of mussel.

The finish is excellent, making the frame and back spring feel like one piece.

Despite being small, this knife is built around a steel frame of a full two millimetres. The bolsters and the back spring are in the same material; this is a solid construction. You can tell by the feel when you hold the knife.

That brings us to grips. The length of the handle is 90 mm, and all of it is available surface for the fingers. The thickness amounts to 12 mm, and the height is a maximum of 21 mm. But with the rounded ends, it still becomes a three-finger knife for me, a good one, but not all fingers can fit.

A good grip, but it is a small knife, and of course, it gives a smaller handle

Not quite, anyway. In a hammer grip, it is close, but only half the little finger is supported and only if half the index finger is found in front of the handle. The three-finger grip becomes even clearer if the knife is held in a sabre grip. But then the thumb and index finger fall naturally into place in the depressions that form the "waist" of the handle. The rounded back end without protruding clips and the like is also comfortable against the inside of the handle. Overall, however, this is a very good and flexible handle given its size.

Walk and Talk

Instead of discussing "opening methods and locks" as I usually do, this is instead about concepts like walk and talk and stay and play. They are significantly more tied to this type of knife.

Accordingly, this knife is, of course, opened with two hands. For this purpose, there are double-sided nail grooves, which incidentally make the knife completely ambidextrous, but as a nail-biter, I am extremely grateful that it does not have to be used.

The knife opens with two hands and has nail notches to help. Jumping Jack also has a solid halfway stop

On the contrary, it is relatively easy to access the blade as about 7 mm of it protrudes and can be gripped in a pinch. I would rate the resistance itself as a seven, maybe an eight on a ten-point scale. The spring provides good resistance both on the way in and out, and the blade falls into place with a satisfying sound that gives some comfort to those who lack their lock. On the way in, there is a classic ninety-degree blade stop. A safety feature that means the blade on the way in does not cut off a fingertip as easily.

The action is unusually smooth for a slip joint. They certainly haven't gone so far as to have ball bearings, but unlike pure friction against the frame that was common in the past, the Jumping Jack has bronze friction bearings, which explains that detail.

Once out, the blade is solid. There is not a hint of lateral movement. In fact, the knife feels unusually sturdy for being this small. Should any slight play occur, you can always tighten the pivot screw.

There is no up and down movement either. As long as the spring holds the blade in place, that is. It is a slip joint after all. But on the other hand, if you put a lot of pressure on a blade in the wrong direction on a knife of this size, you have still done something wrong.

To Carry

Jumping Jack is a true pocket knife. No question about it. When folded, it measures 89 mm, and all ends are well-rounded and therefore soft. The only thing that could be perceived as sharp is the protruding tang.

A sheath can be purchased for the knife, but here we use one with a magnetic clip from another manufacturer

When the soft shape is then complemented by a nice weight of 90 g, there is not much negative to say about how the knife behaves in a pocket. It simply lies at the bottom. Preferably across if the size of the pocket allows. That is both an advantage and a disadvantage. But to remedy some of the historical problems that arose in connection with this behaviour and which resulted in questions like "how on earth can a knife disappear in a pocket?", the clip was invented. You will not find anything like that here.

That was the disadvantage; the advantage of clipless knives is that they are always more comfortable to work with.*

As you can see, the knife fits perfectly in this sheath

If you don't want to carry the knife loose in a pocket or bag, it's a good idea to buy the leather sheath that QSP has so aptly developed for this purpose. It also protects the knife's hilt from chafing if you also store other things like keys in the same pocket. This is especially true if you choose more exclusive materials like abalone, but even this resin variant can be scratched.

Now I didn't invest in a sheath because I have a couple lying around from another brand that I know are also great for this knife. 

To Conclude

For those who like the "modern traditionals" category, the Jumping Jack is not only a good example but also a really good choice. The look is there; what you think of it is, of course, personal, but the knife doesn't really look like everyone else. I see that as a big plus in a knife world where originality is sometimes in short supply. But here Mr Marquardt has managed to distil a classic model, but with a modern twist that at least appealed to my eye.

QSP has the nice habit of including a card that tells you the dimensions of the actual model in the box.

Then QSP has added a dose of what their name actually stands for. Written out, the acronym stands for Quality, Service, Price. I can't comment on the service in this specific case, even though it is generally very good. However, I can say something about the other two parts.

There are some classic quality markers for slip joints that can also be used to assess a modern interpretation of one. The first one, which applies to all knives, is, of course, how the transition between the different materials is made. This is especially true when you have designs that include bolsters. Here we also have double bolsters.

The work is really well done on this knife. It really exudes quality.

Jumping Jack, as elegant as an espresso

Another marker is how much, if any, light shines through the handle if the knife is held up to a light source. It is very difficult to get the spine spring completely tight to the frame. This is especially true of older handmade knives. With modern levels of tolerances, it is easier. On the Jumping Jack, nothing shines through. This, of course, gives the highest rating. Add to that the spring and frame are completely smooth in relation to each other, both with the blade in the extended and retracted position. It is very well made. Especially like the spring in the middle position, the ninety-degree stop, also here at the same height as the frame. A finesse that is only found on very fine slip joints. 

Then you have the usual folding knife pitfalls to avoid. These include areas such as how the factory edge is made, whether the blade is centred when the knife is closed, whether there is play in the blade when the knife is open, and so on.

QSP has succeeded on all counts with the Jumping Jack, and it is not hard to see why other brands are starting to use QSP as an OEM manufacturer. This is a damn well-made knife.

The QSP Jumping Jack is a truly classic pocket knife, easy to always carry with you.

So if you appreciate the design language and like QSP as a brand, Jumping Jack is a more than viable alternative. Especially if we mix in the last letter in the name and talk about the price. The recommended price on the website is 75$ and when it reaches European stores, the price is from 99€.

For the invested pennies, you get a real quality knife with a timeless design and well-chosen materials. It is highly recommended!

QSP Knives

Specifications:

Length Overall: 159 mm

Length Folded 89 mm

Weight: 90 g

Blade Length: 70 mm

Blade Thickness: 3 mm

Blade Steel: 14C28N

Handle Material: Black and white Resin

Lock: None, Slip joint

Produced by: QSP, made in China

/ J - lockless

* Except knives with completely hidden clips like Lionsteel's ROK, which has a retractable clip.

#knivesandbikes #aliaspostmortem #knivigtvarre 

Review Olitans Lemon Shark

  

-  a shark with a good bite

Sometimes things don't have to be that complicated or innovative, for that matter. They can still be good. That description fits this knife from Olitans called Lemon Shark.

If the shape can be said to be recognizable and the same can be said about both materials, opening methods and locks. But for me, Olitans is a new brand, and it was therefore exciting to see if they add anything to an ever-growing knife market.

Olitans Lemon Shark

The knife comes in several different variants, and I chose this variant solely because of the name. A "Lemon Shark" has to have a yellow handle, right? In addition, I have quite a few knives, so sometimes I want a little colour in the middle of all the black, titanium gray and brown.

If you don't want this very distinct colour, the shark is also available in four additional colors and the materials also vary. A transparent yellow PEI, green or blue Micarta and white G10 are other options.

My first contact with Olitans was a positive one.

Short Version (former Twitter version): Olitans Lemon Shark, not the rarest shark in the knife oceans, but it manages its niche in the ecosystem well

Blade

As I said in the introduction, Lemon Shark is not innovative, so we get a very ordinary drop point for the blade. But it is a very well-proportioned and therefore stylish blade. The length is 83 mm, and the height is 25 mm, although the website states 26 mm. The thickness is 3.5 mm.

The blade has no decorative elements or the like, or by the way, it depends on how you look at it. I will come back to that. The only thing that contributes to the appearance besides the shape itself is a clear false edge, and a longer part of the base of the spine is provided with grooves for better grip. Something that, in this case, fulfils a double function. Partly to place the thumb on, but also when opening the knife.

A classic and well-proportioned drop point

The blade is not marked with any logo, which is unusual. It is found elsewhere, which I will return to. The only thing on the blade, in very small text behind one of the thumb studs, is the steel type.

In all versions except one, the steel is provided with a titanium nitride coating. That is what gives it the dark colour. Whether it is necessary from a rust protection point of view is debatable, since the steel is already stainless from the start.

The steel is a good Chinese steel called 10Cr15MoV. In my experience, it is a step up from, for example, the more common and simpler Cr8 steel. It keeps its sharpness longer while exhibiting the same corrosion resistance.

The steel used is 10Cr15MoV

 with a TiNi-coating

The 3.5 mm blade material is quite generous in relation to the length of the blade and the intended area of ​​use. It is thinned out by an almost full flat grind. The thickness behind the edge is 0.5 mm on the straight part and a full 0.6 mm at the belly. That's too much for my taste. Especially if the knife is intended as EDC. The strong edge is more suitable for a fixed blade knife of the "survival" type, something to chop wood with and the like and is therefore overkill for a small pocket knife.

That said, the Lemon Shark came with reasonably sharp teeth, meaning the factory edge is acceptable. But the thickness means that it is not the knife that cuts with the least resistance. But on the other hand, you are not afraid to cut into slightly tougher materials with this knife. I have even tested it on some old car tyres. Something I usually don't do, but now they were there. What the blade is also surprisingly good at is cutting into wood of various types, both fresh and dry.

Lemon Shark came in handy when cutting sticks to secure distance markings on the knife-throwing range

The knife is slightly worse in fibrous materials such as cardboard, but also in textiles. A thick blade with a robust edge, of course, has its impact. In return, it means that you are not afraid to use force when cutting cable ties or the like. But overall, this is a very functional blade. There is a bit of a straight edge and a good belly to work with, depending on what tasks are to be performed.

It can also be said that if the edge is thick, the tip is all the more delicate and punctures well. This is because the blade is significantly tapered.

Handle

That Lemon Shark does not offer any news is confirmed by the handle, which is built according to template 1A. But that does not have to be bad, as said. More specifically, it means that the knife has a frame made of steel that has been greatly lightened internally, at least on one side. About the frame, it can also be noted that it has been given the same colour as the blade, which is a nice detail.

On the outside, there are sides of G10 and in the back, a partial back spacer of the same material. The blue colour from the thumb studs is mirrored here. It's also here you find a hidden bolt for attaching lanyards, for those who use such. 

The handle is comfortable but a bit short

The sides are screwed in at two points in addition to the pivot screw. All three screws are the same size, T8, which is excellent. You only need to use a chisel if you want to adjust or disassemble your knife. Choosing a coarser dimension than the often used T6s brings another advantage. The coarser dimension is significantly more durable in the long run. At least if the screws are reasonably hardened. The smaller screws are only found here in the clip mount.

The handle is 107 mm long, of which 91 mm is available grip area behind the finger guard. It is at the minimum for my hand size, but a four-finger grip fits, albeit barely. The thickness of the handle is a full 13.5 mm, which is quite substantial.

On the outside of the steel frame are sides made of G10 in this case

The G10 material in the sides is a bit special, as most manufacturers choose to have it a bit rougher to provide better grip. That is even what G10 is known for. Olitans have chosen to almost polish them. There is a microscopic pattern, but it does not provide any friction to speak of. Rather, the sides almost feel like plastic. A disadvantage of that, besides feeling cheaper, is that it provides less grip, especially if you have hands that are wet from sweat, rain or snow.

The advantage, however, is that the knife wears significantly less on pockets, and that is, after all, where a pocket knife spends most of its time. So it is something you can decide for yourself, the importance of.

Lemon Shark is comfortable in the hand, both to hold and to work with

When holding the Lemon Shark, it feels small in my hand, but still comfortable. The indentation for the index finger, together with the ridges on the blade, locks the hand in a good way in a sabre grip. Then the softly rounded back of the handle also lies against the inside of my hand comfortably.

Hammer grips also work well, and here it is mainly the thickness that saves the handle. It makes the hand fill up properly. But it is a double-edged sword; thicker handles make knives better to work with if you do heavier tasks and for a longer time. At the same time, knives are worse to carry. But the increased surface area that the thickness means also means that you can use more force behind the cuts when cutting in wood, for example. This makes the Lemon Shark a better heavy worker.

Reverse grips are no problem either, while a pinch grip for the really intricate details is less good because the handle is thick at the front.

Opening and Lock

Olitans has caught on to the trend with multiple opening methods. Here, there are two or maybe two plus one if a two-handed opening is included in the equation. Otherwise, it is a front flipper and thumb studs that apply. That was the area I asked to come back to. The extra-long area with grooves on the blade spine is there to provide a good grip for your thumb when you flip out the blade.

The method works very well, by the way. The geometry is good, and the speed is helped by ball bearings. The action when both opening and closing the knife is both fast and smooth.

Lemon Shark can be opened with either a front flipper or the brightly coloured thumb studs

The second, and for me preferred way to open the knife is with the thumb studs. Incidentally, they were the ones I had in mind when I mentioned decorative elements on the blade. They are heavily blue anodised in this case.

Not only that, they work well too! The blade can be either folded out slowly or flicked out with either your thumb or an index finger on the back. All ways work great. The handle is chamfered to facilitate access, and they sit just far enough out to both be easy to reach and provide good geometry for the opening.

There is not much to say about the shape, as these are fairly traditional barrel-shaped studs. They are soft on the fingers and do what they are supposed to. 

The blade is held in place by a liner lock

The lock is a liner lock, and it can be immediately stated that it works excellently. Perhaps the lock bar can be perceived as somewhat thin to give full confidence, but that is more in my head than in the function.

On the contrary, the blade is held in place without any flaws. Nothing negative to complain about at all, actually. There is no lateral play to be detected, and there is no play up and down in the blade. In addition, the lock engages with every opening and has never had any problems for me during the test period.

The lock bar is also easily accessible, and since it is relatively thin, the resistance is not much to argue about either. It is easy to release the lock. One thing that makes it even easier is that the lock bar is bevelled, which provides a more comfortable edge to press your thumb against.

To Carry

As mentioned earlier, the Lemon Shark is a chunky little thing. The length isn't much to talk about, but the width across the back makes the knife feel quite thick; 13.5 mm is a lot for a folding knife.

The clip is nothing extraordinary, but it does what it's supposed to.

The weight is 112 g, which could possibly be reduced a little if the G10 sides had been thinner, but it is not so much that it is something to complain about. The weight distribution also means that the balance point ends up in the middle of the indentation for the index finger.

The smooth sides make the knife slide easily into place, both when the knife is to be pulled out and put away.

A little of the knife is peaking out of the pocket. But most visible is the text on the clip

The clip is a simple spring steel version. However, the tension is sufficient to perform its function, and the same can be said about the space underneath. "Normal" fabrics can fit, i.e. jeans, trousers and thinner jacket pockets without causing any problems. The tip of the clip points slightly outwards, something I usually don't appreciate, but here it doesn't cause any direct problems. In fact, the clip doesn't feel very much against the hand except if you squeeze the handle tightly.

The colour of the clip is nice as it matches the rest of the hardware on the knife. One thing that can be polarising is where Olitans has chosen to place its logo/name. It is found, in addition to being somewhat discreet on the pivot screw, also in large letters on the clip. Sure, it is a good advertising spot, but it is a detail I do not appreciate. I prefer more neutral clips.

The clip is removable and is attached with two screws in a tandem position. They are recessed in the clip itself, but on the other hand, it is not recessed in the handle side. One of the few concessions to the price level.

To Conclude

My encounter with Lemon Shark was extra exciting as it was my first encounter with Olitans as a brand. This specific model is a budget model in that the price is not particularly high. The recommended price on the website is $45. For that, you get a knife that certainly doesn't offer any direct surprises when it comes to construction and materials. But everything is well chosen for the price range.

For your money, you also get a knife that is well-built and feels well-thought-out. The appearance is balanced, and there are details that indicate some care. The blade, frame, clip and screws are colour-matched and the thumb studs and back spacer act as a pop of colour. In addition, the lanyard hole or rather bolt, has been hidden in a clever way. An extra plus for Olitans is also the countersunk screws.

Adding to the positive impression is that opening and closing the knife is very smooth with good overall good action. This applies whether you prefer a front flipper or use the thumb knobs.

Just as Olitans says in its product description, Lemon Shark is a very good EDC knife.

Olitans themselves say that the knife is designed for EDC, and that is something I really agree with. But the fact is that it can handle a little more than that. The knife is not bad in the forest or as a complement to an axe or larger knife. Especially since the edge seems to be adapted for significantly heavier tasks. It is one of the few things I do not experience as completely positive.

Another is that the Lemon Shark can feel a little clumsy in the pocket due to the handle, which is perceived as thick. But that disadvantage is offset, on the other hand, by the fact that this particular feature is nice when you need to carve, for example. The extra surface against the hand provides less friction and pressure point than a narrower knife. So it is a balancing act.

Lemon Shark is also a good companion in the forest, here during a winter walk

But overall, it must be said that the Lemon Shark was a very pleasant first meeting with this brand. In fact, I would go so far as to say that this is a damn good budget knife.

It has everything you would expect from a solid pocket knife, offers some nice details and doesn't look out of place. As I said, it is available in other shades than bright yellow for those who prefer more discreet knives.

Olitans 

Specifications:

Length Overall: 190 mm

Length Folded: 107 mm

Weight: 112 g, weighed by me, stated 112 g. 

Blade Length: 83 mm

Blade Thickness: 3,5 mm

Blade Steel: 10Cr15MoV

Handle: G10

Lock: Liner lock

Produced by: Olitans, made in China

/ J - positively surprised

#knivesandbikes #aliaspostmortem #knivigtvarre 

Review Zitoon Knives The Primitive Rotational

  

Introduction

This will be a review that starts from a position I have already established. Which is that I really like these knives from Zitoon Knives! So much so that they became my new first choice for rotational throwing and thus the knives I have competed with for the last year. Of course, that says something about what I think about the general characteristics.

Zitoon Knives le primitif rotation

But I thought I would go into more depth about why I appreciate Le Primitif Rotation, as they are called and provide more specific details. In this way, I may be able to make it easier for those of you who are interested in buying a set.

Those of you who follow me either here on the blog or on Instagram have come across this brand before. Zitoon Knives is a small enthusiast brand from Normandy, France. Olivier Feret is found there, who both designs and manufactures these knives. In other words, we are talking about knives made in small series and largely by hand. I don't want to say that they are 100% handmade, because I want to leave that epithet to knives that are forged from scratch.

Appearance and Dimensions

For those of you who have seen my presentation of Le primitiv No Spin, you will recognise the look. This is exactly the same model, but on a larger scale. Regardless, it is a knife that exudes a certain rawness with simple but aggressive lines. According to Olivier, he was inspired by a computer game, "Hunt", when he created the model. And it was the design of the tip that he fell for. That is something I can understand, and as a bonus, it can be said that it is extremely effective. In a way, they are reminiscent of daggers in that respect, something I will return to. They do so especially because the long "false edge", even though throwing knives do not have any actual edges, makes the knife look and act as if it were double-edged.

What the knives look like after about 33,000 throws

The thickness is 6 mm, and the rear ends are rounded.

The tip is very effective

Le primitif belongs to the 13" category. That is, knives that are 330 mm long.* The width of the blade is at most 42 mm, and then narrows quite quickly, as you can see. The handle is 29.5 mm at its widest point, and the thickness of the knife is 6 mm. Like the length, it is a common measurement for throwing knives. It is thick enough to hold well and give the right weight while being thin enough to provide good flight and good penetration.

These measurements give a knife that weighs 410 g. That measurement also falls in the middle of the intended categories, as primitif is neither the lightest nor the heaviest knives for rotational throwing. I prefer knives around this weight. Knives that are too heavy can fall off the target if the hits are not perfect, and they have a tendency to hit like axes, which grinds down the targets faster. In addition, it is harder if you practice for a long time, I might add. Although the latter primarily applies to No Spin knives.

Material

The French know what they want, at least when it comes to the choice of knife steel. A large part of French knife manufacturing has always turned to Sweden to meet the need. This applies to the production of both classic folding knives and throwing knives. However, it is not the same steel we are talking about.

What Zitoon Knives and some other manufacturers use is a group of wear or high-strength steels from SSAB that go by the name Hardox. They have serial numbers such as 450 and 550, and here the former is relevant. It is generally an excellent material for the purpose. As I said, it is made for tough jobs as it is usually found in dump truck bodies, dozer blades and the like. 

The French's favorite steel for throwing knives. I found this label on a tractor bed.

Concretely, this means that you have a steel that is extremely tough and therefore does not chip or crack. This is provided that the hardness is not too high, of course. Throwing knives are hardened like regular knives, but then they are heat-treated to get a significantly lower hardness. Where a folding knife often boasts steel with HRC around 60-62 and regular fixed blades often hold 58-59 HRC, throwing knives are found around fifty. Very soft in comparison.

The reason is simple: regular knives don't hold up to the stress that throwing knives are subjected to. One or two throws are fine, but not if you practice with them. We're talking about hundreds of throws per practice session. Even good hits cause strong vibrations, and then we haven't even talked about broadsides in the target or close contact with the ground and other things that count as pure abuse.

To Throw

Le primitif rotation, or The Primitive as it is called in English, is a model that is completely made for rotational throwing. As usual, you can, of course, throw both Military Half Spin and No Spin with these knives, but it is not very good for that. In my opinion, I should add.

Generally speaking, it can be said about this model that it deceives the eye. It is the slim lines and the elongated tip that do it. Le primitif feels heavier than you might be led to believe when you first see it. Especially when compared to knives that are thinner and longer.

This, together with the weight, makes the flight predictable. Something desirable in a good throwing knife. This is a result of the knife having a stable rotation and also of the fact that it splits the air well. The latter means that the knife does not want to twist or get caught by crosswinds very easily.

Le primitif/The Primitive is a very good model for precision throwing

Some of the properties come from the fact that the knife is neutrally balanced. Something that applies to the majority of knives for rotational use. The exception is some knives primarily adapted for very short distances, and displays** where slightly front-heavy knives are sometimes used.

Furthermore, it can be said about this model that it is a good precision instrument thanks to the properties mentioned above. Le primitif is a good knife for precision throwing from 3, 5 and 7 meters because of that.

Then something must be said about the tip. Mostly, it is devastating to everything it hits. That is, the penetration is very good. That is also an important feature when you really want a hit to stay in the target. "Stick", as it is called, is always important, but especially if you are competing. You do not want to miss points because a half-good hit falls off the target. It can be costly for the score.

However, thinner tips are both a curse and a blessing depending on what the knife is to be used for. As I said, it is excellent for keeping the knife in the target and for hitting smaller objects and not least for hitting, for example, playing cards. Succeeding with "centre cuts", i.e. hitting in the middle of a card without touching the edge, is much easier with a narrow tip. But wide tips have other advantages, such as covering larger parts of a target and thus increasing the chance of good scores.

- Rotational Throwing

First, it should be said that not all knives for spin throwing spin the same way. They all rotate about the same amount, that is, a turn of about three meters or just over. But, and it is a big but, how you get there is very different. Some knives give the feeling that they have to be "started", while others, like this one, spin more naturally. The thrower, therefore, does not need to add much speed himself. Then it varies how quickly or slowly a knife starts to rotate and how fast the turn itself is once the movement has been initiated. Generally speaking, a smaller knife rotates faster, but it also depends on how the handle is designed, etc. So far, I have left aside the thrower himself and his grip and technique, but that is another question.

Le primitif is very neutral on all these points. It starts to rotate relatively quickly but is not extreme in that direction thanks to neutral weight, medium length and medium weight. It also does not spin either late or extremely early. All in all, this makes this a very good model for precision throwing. This is especially evident from three meters, which is the closest distance in most competition systems.

My first impressions of Le primitif rotation from about a year ago

One of the things I like about this model is how the release feels. This is due to the design of the handle and the lack of handle sides. I also like the rounded back of the handle when it is held against the hand. The grip I have is a handshake grip with three fingers on the handle and the little finger slightly behind the handle itself.

But then we come to an area that is one of the main reasons why I chose this specific model to compete with. It is that the grip when you throw from the blade is relatively similar to that obtained when you throw from the handle. This is a big advantage when you engage in "Walk Back" and not just throw full rotations.

This becomes very clear when throwing from four meters. Here, however, the thrower must remember that the throw must strive towards the target, as I usually say. If not, the knife will overrotate, at least that applies to my technique. At both short distances, 3 and 4 m, the knife must be tilted quite a bit forward to avoid spinning too fast. This and the fact that the knife's flight is very straight mean that it is important to aim precisely at the target.

The grip from four meters is a firm four-finger grip with the little finger right where the top edge turns into a point. The angle of the wrist is completely straight. It is a good example of good design, by the way. The thrower does not need to adjust the grip because the designer has already done that.

About 33,000 throws later, this is still one of my favourite models for Walk Back

From five meters, the knife behaves somewhat the same, although the thrower has to adapt the technique slightly. I personally "pull" the throw when the handle is pointed towards the target in the middle of the movement. However, it should be done without force and fairly calmly. All knives have a natural speed, if I may say so. They can certainly be forced to rotate both slower and faster depending on the thrower's technique and strength. But if more force is added to the rotation than the knife's natural speed, you also have to recalculate the throwing trajectory and when the actual release should occur, as well as the angle of the knife in the hand to achieve the desired result. Many variables play into knifethrowing.

When it's time for six meters and grip on the blade again, I vary my feeling towards the same grip from four meters. Where I previously thought of aiming the handle at the target, I now get the feeling of starting the rotation earlier. If the knife is thrown forward from this distance, I can guarantee that it will not have time to rotate completely, and the miss is a fact. The grip is the same as at four meters without modification to my technique.

From seven meters, however, I change the grip slightly in relation to that from five meters. Now I only use two fingers to hold. The reason is simple: I actually want to be able to throw forward, unlike at shorter distances. In order for the knife to have time to rotate completely, the rotation needs to be accelerated a little with a "faster" grip. Otherwise, the rotation is "pulled" in the same way as at five meters. No strength is needed from seven meters either.

If you want to throw further, it can be noted that the knife is very easy to throw even from nine meters, as it feels fairly similar to throwing from seven meters. One danger is that you are led to believe that you have to use more strength and then over-rotate the knife. The only thing that is needed is that you change the throwing parabola slightly.

- Half Spin

The Le primitif is not one of my favourite knives for Half Spin techniques. That can be said right away. My favourite among larger knives for that purpose is another Zitoon model, namely the Spinning Dagger. This is especially true for underhand throws. Otherwise, I like even narrower daggers for the purpose.

The grip on the blade itself is quite good in this case, for that reason. As I said, the Le primitif is reminiscent of a dagger. So in that respect, it does not fail. But then there was the disadvantage that it is quite asymmetrical in its shape. The large "hump" on the blade always makes me feel like the knife wants to tip in both the hand and in the air.

Now it certainly does not do that to any great extent, but it feels that way. But if you measure, you can say that the balance point of the knife is not only found approximately in the middle but also along the intended centre line.

- No Spin

As a No Spin knife, it is both too big and heavy, as expected, while the shape of everything from the blade to the handle is excellent. The reason is simple: the knife, as mentioned earlier, comes in two sizes, one for No Spin and one for rotational techniques. Therefore, the properties of course follow, although it is not without problems to scale up the size. But in this case, Zitoon has succeeded well.

If you are going to throw mostly No Spin, you should choose the smaller model.

The reason is that the increased mass, almost double that of many No Spin knives, means that most techniques fall short. It is impossible to flick or to accelerate a knife this heavy in an effective way. What remains is to use techniques like those that Ralph Thorn once launched. Simply put, when you throw large knives without rotation, you "hurl" the knife more than a flicked throw.

If that is your preference, this is a really good knife!

Conclusion

A couple of questions often come up when I'm choosing a throwing knife. The biggest one is whether to go for a type inspired by a dagger or a Bowie knife. There is, of course, a third variant, and the Le primitif is an excellent example of that, a throwing knife that looks more like a, well, regular knife!

Another question in my case is whether to go for a knife with or without a handle. The advantage of this type of knife without handle sides is that the "release", the moment the knife leaves the hand, becomes very distinct. But it also depends on the weather. If your hands are dry, I prefer bare steel, but if it is extremely hot, for example, a good leather grip is nice. Then the thickness is, of course, affected by the sides. So the choice is not entirely given. Both variants have their pros and cons, and in the end, it is mostly about personal preference.

Another big advantage of not having a more advanced handle, well, besides the fact that it holds better, of course, is that the knife feels more similar to grip regardless of whether you throw from the blade or the handle. In this case, the feeling is as similar as it can be without the knife being a pronounced dagger. A type of knife that otherwise usually excels in the field. 

Throwing with a good knife is definitely something that sharpens the mind

But the release is an area where one of Le primitif's great advantages is found. When that is combined with a relatively massive feel despite its slim exterior and a devastatingly competent tip, you get a precision tool. A knife that is good from three-meter distances, and this recurs in several competition disciplines. Not least applies to the moment like "Silhouette" where the target is made of planks. This knife does not fall off the target in the first place.

One of the knife's few weaknesses, or rather an area in which it is not as good, is long-distance throwing. At least I would like to have some small depression or similar in the handle or handle sides to get a better grip at distances from 11m and up. It is easier to get the power into the knife without increasing the rotation speed. Personally, I also prefer slightly longer knives for that purpose.

Crispy weather, crispy knives. Zitoon Knives has really succeeded with Le primitif rotation

With Le primitif rotation, Zitoon Knives has managed to create a shape that works for both rotational throwing and No Spin by changing the size. It is actually not as easy as it may seem. Most models cannot just be scaled up or down like that and still work.

However, this larger version is a very nice acquaintance. As usual, it was actually the appearance that I fell for first, I must admit. There is not much else to go on when you do not have the opportunity to test the models. I have not been able to find any previous reviews of this knife either. But once in hand, it corresponds to all expectations and then some. This means that, as it looks now, I will be using this for several disciplines in the upcoming UKAT World Championships in Italy later this year. Especially in Walk Back and Silhouette.

The reason is simple, this knife is very pleasant to throw, also from the blade, which makes it a perfect choice when you have to throw from many distances. At the same time, an easily controlled rotation and a superb tip make it a formidable tool for all short disciplines, especially those that include plank targets.

These characteristics also make the knife very suitable for beginners as well as professionals. All in all, it makes it clear that I can recommend this knife without a doubt.***

Zitoon

Specifications:

Steel: Hardox 450

Length: 330 mm (13")

Width: 42 mm, at most

Thickness: 6 mm

Weight: 410 g

Point of Balance: Neutral, 17/16 cm from tip/back of handle

/ J - aiming for Italy with French Knives

* Knives intended for rotational throwing are usually around 30 cm (short), 33 cm (medium) or 35.5 cm (long). There are exceptions, of course, but most models are found in the three categories.

** For example, in Circus and Vaudeville, you would throw at or around a person. There, you almost always throw at the same, very short distance.

*** If you pass by the Växjö area and want to try this model or any other knife I have reviewed, please contact me and a demonstration and test can be arranged via Växjö Sportkastning.

#knivesandbikes #knivigtvarre